Frannys

by Elena on May 15, 2012

One of the great things of working in the restaurant industry is that you meet people in high places, or rather hot places, like my friend who works in front of this 900 degree oven.


We used to be partners and work side by side on the line.  He was a great teacher who would keep this hot headed cook calm when other line cooks decided to pull a Carrie.  When he left everyone was happy but also a little bit envious of the person who would be learning to cook with this temperamental oven putting out great food.  Franny’s is in Brooklyn, a restaurant committed to using local and seasonal ingredients.  Before you shake your head, roll your eyes and say ‘yeah that’s what they all say’ hear me out.  Like many other NYC Chefs, the Chefs at Franny’s frequent the various farmers’ markets in New York City.  My friend told me that Serious Eats once wrote about a Franny’s dish of roasted sunchokes.  They roasted them in the oven until they shrivel into a deep caramel brown so soft you could cut it in half with a spoon.  Soon after Franny’s took it off their menu.  Maybe the sunchokes at the market weren’t as good as they used to be; maybe they found something better.  That’s what happens when you have the flexibility of an ever changing menu.  Isn’t that the dream of most Chef’s, the capability to cook the food they want with quality ingredients.  Of course fresh ingredients make a huge difference, but it is also what you do with them and that is what it makes Franny’s stand out from the rest.

We started our meal with a salumi plate and tasted all they had to offer – finocchiona, sopressata, spicy salami, salami sarda, bresaola, pancetta, and coppa, aged, cured, dried and full of flavor.  They were soft and juicy, fatty and not overly dry.

While my friend and I were busy perusing the housemade salumi and various other hearty dishes on the menu my boyfriend ordered a citrus salad to supplement our fatty choices.  The salad had cara cara oranges, mandarin oranges, blood oranges, olives, pistachios, and chopped parsley.  The vinaigrette was tart and spicy, so simple yet remarkably good.  I never would have thought to order a salad what with all the tasty cured meat luring us just a short distance away, but I’m glad that we did.  We talked about this salad for days and tried replicating it at home after one of our shifts.  It was flavorful but not quite as flavorful as we had here.

They sent us over a bowl of marinated olives roasted in the brick oven.  Typically I don’t get excited about olives (I am a very a bad Spaniard) but these olives were different.  They were roasted and still warm and really delicious.  I never really thought to roast olives.  The roasting accented their flavor but added a more smoky component to the typical brininess of olives.  I kept reaching for more.

We obviously didn’t have enough charcuterie (is there ever enough?) so we ordered the wood roasted pork sausage and freekeh.  Freekeh is a grain that is set on fire so the straw can burn.  The high moisture grain doesn’t burn, it roasts.  The freekeh was more flavorful than other grains I’ve eaten.  The comical name was not lost on us either.  The more glasses of wine we drank the funnier we found the name ‘freekeh.’  We may have sang a few songs that night, much to the disappointment of the diners around us.


We had one pasta dish that was tossed with chicken livers, olive oil, and a sharp cheese.  Again it was simple but delicious.

Now the real reason we went to Franny’s besides the cook with the snazzy mustache that works behind the counter was the pizza.  As you can see the pizza has a lot of dough but the dough is pretty awesome.  Soft on the inside and a crisp chewy outside.  All they did was put some marinara, olio verde, and sliced garlic on one pie and on the other anchovies, capers, olives and chilies.  I may be a little biased but someone really knows how to cook pizza.

Cheers to the pizza cook!

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Day Trip To Boston

by Elena on February 18, 2012

It was during the last snow fall that we spent a day in Boston. I realize that a day trip from New York City isn’t the ideal time frame for a sufficient visit, especially since it takes a good four + hours of speeding on the highway in order to get to Boston from New York City. It also takes four or so more sleepy and eyes half-closed hours to drive back home. When you work in an industry that doesn’t allow for a lot of time off (as well as a slimmer chance of getting the same days off as your friends) you learn to take what you can get. Which is why we decided to take to the road after a long Saturday night service with only a BLT, a chicken sandwich with extra mustard, and a playlist of streaming tunes to keep awake the designated driver. The designated driver in this case being me.

We stayed near the Bay Village section of Boston only a few blocks away from the Boston Common (the central public park of Boston). The neighborhood is known for the rows of small brick houses.

Beacon Hill is known for its federal-style rowhouses. Needless to say it was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Boston. I hear the neighborhood is a little out of my price range but I couldn’t help but daydream about being on the inside of one of these houses.

Beacon Hill Boston Massachusetts

I had some company on the overnight ride up to Boston. He’s from Massachusetts so he may have wanted the Patriots to win the Superbowl but only judge him a little bit for it. He did come in handy when circumnavigating the city. He likes pastrami sandwiches and Swedish Fish and occasionally lets me chose what to watch on television. Oh yeah and he’s an amazing cook.

Most of our trip consisted of walking around Boston (as well as a trip to the aquarium!  I touched a shark).  When visiting a city you aren’t familiar with I feel like exploring each neighborhood is the best way to experience it.  I hadn’t been to Quincy Market since my 7th grade trip to Boston years ago.

Before our arrival in Boston I did some research on Boston restaurants and I discovered Chef Barbara Lynch. She is friends with the executive chef at the restaurant where I work, and he had great things to say about her. After I read a few articles about her I became very intrigued, mostly because she seems to embody the tough, no frills, female chef persona that I am very envious of, especially when I have flashbacks of my crying in the walk-in at work after a particularly nasty service. Her group of restaurants include fine dining, a butcher shop, an old fashioned bar, an Italian lunch counter, a catering company, and an oyster bar. I often look upon certain chefs with admiration but in her case I felt admiration and also the desire to emulate her choices and follow just a few steps in her footsteps.

We decided to eat at Chef Lynch’s restaurant Menton. My decision was further cemented after a girl from Boston trailed at our restaurant a week before our trip.  She works at Menton. During our dinner she graciously came to our table and described one of our courses to us. She later gave us an extensive tour of the kitchen and they shared in their shift beers.  (Shift drinks are drinks provided to employees after their shift is over).  It is amazing how welcoming people are when they know that you are also in the industry.  It was a great surprise and a wonderful experience.

Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of our meal.   I was a little distracted by the delicious food and by my company.  I do however have the names of the dishes that we ate. Yes the list is long and yes we ate everything.

Maine Shrimp Crudo
Royal White Sturgeon Caviar, Allium Juices

Local Skate Wing
Caper Emulsion, Gem Lettuce, Raisin Puree

Razor Clams
Potato, Horseradish, Dill

Seared Foie Gras de Canard
French Butter Pear, Chestnut Honey, Pecan

Terrine of Foie Gras, Ris de Veau, and Rabbit
Pistachio, Rosemary Raisin Toast, Red Currants

Kataifi Wrapped Langoustines
Almond, Greek Yogurt, Honey

Cavendish Pheasant
Perigord Truffle, Veloute, Turnip

Elysian Field Farm Lamb Loin
Cauliflower, Golden Raisin, Harissa

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On Food and Cooking

by Elena on June 27, 2011

Harold McGee’s book On Food and Cooking has been sitting on my cookbook shelf for way too long.  On the occasional ambitious evening when I get home past midnight I pull it out for a read, but am usually so tired from work I don’t get very far.  Many call this book the bible of cooking for the very reason that McGee explores the reason why things happen in cooking.  Why does yeast make bread rise?  Why is it that potatoes oxidize and chocolate needs to be tempered?

I made a deal with a friend of mine to read this book cover to cover, not just skimming the index.  I am mentioning it here as a way to push myself on those nights when I get home from work and would rather search through my dvr than read a book.  It has been written!

School was only 9 months and I still have so much more to learn.  The next couple of months I am going to scour my cookbooks and culinary references to supplement what I’m doing in the kitchen.   A series on The Science and Lore of the Kitchen seems like a fun idea.  Yes I used the words science and fun in the same sentence.  I really don’t know what has come over me.

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Sledding on Sheet Pans

by Elena on June 27, 2011

It’s been almost two months since I started working in this restaurant.  It feels like ten.

I made the decision to change careers because I am passionate about food.  It seemed like a valid reason.  At school I was proficient in the kitchen and truly enjoyed working with my hands.  I was warned about some of the hardships of the industry but I knew – maybe thought – I could handle them.  Even though I knew what I was getting myself into, there have been days during the past two months where I had serious thoughts of making a grand exit like that crazy JetBlue flight-attendant who popped open the plane chute and jumped.  What would be the culinary equivalent?  Not too sure but thoughts of sledding down the stairs on a full sheet pan did cross my mind on a particularly stressful night.

The other night I had some drinks with some of my FCI classmates to commiserate about our new jobs.  My friend who shares the same crazy hours and competitive work environment as I do seemed to share my irrational thoughts about walking out on stressful days.  My other friend was a different story.  She didn’t have those crazy thoughts at all, but I have a feeling it has something to do with her unionized kitchen which inevitably means better pay, much less hours, and what is this?  Two days off a week???  I look upon those days with whimsy.

Things get better though.  The stress is the same but the good news is that you will learn… eventually.  Don’t get me wrong, there is never a day where I feel like a complete idiot at some point during the day.  But I suppose if I didn’t that would mean that I knew everything and had nothing left to learn.  That day will never come.

A friend at work, who has the most unfaltering attitude about work I can’t help but be a little jealous, has given me many words of wisdom since I started.  He has been my yoda so to speak, my Mr. Miyagi in Chef whites.  Wax on, wax off.  You need to get your work done and block out all the bullshit around you.  Remember your goals and stick to them.  If you let every insult get to you, you will quit.  I like to think that I can find a balance between it all.

Hopefully none of you will hear about some crazy cook who stole a full sheet pan from work and rode it down Park Avenue.

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The Perfect Day Off

by Elena on June 20, 2011

When you get very few days off you learn to treasure them.  Usually that means spending the day lounging around and eating enormous amounts of food.  In this instance it meant going to the Jersey Shore, like a true Jersey Girl, and lounging at the beach.  We also ate enormous amounts of beach friendly food all day long.  We woke up early (moderately) and drove down the Garden State Parkway to the stretch of beach that Jerseyans like to call The Shore.

The day started with one of my favorite things in the whole wide world.  Pasteis de Nata from Texeiras in Newark New Jersey! Oh and also a large cup of coffee.

There is something about being at the beach that makes you want to jump for joy.

In the beginning of the summer, the ocean is still cold, well freezing actually, but it will take a lot more than ice chilled water to prevent me from dipping my feet in and then running right back out.

We sat on a bench facing the ocean and ate deli sandwiches while listening to the drum playing busker that makes his tips on the Asbury Park boardwalk.

At the end of the day we stopped in Newark again to eat at Mi Pequeno Mexico, a Mexican restaurant on Ferry Street.  The picture does not do the food justice.  The little tacos that I order every time I set foot into the restaurant have tons of flavor and really remind me of eating in D.F. the last time I was there.

The following day, while not technically my day off, I spent the morning sitting under a tree in Central Park making imaginary commentary for the passerbys with one of my closest friends.  Some people sunbathed in bikinis which I always think is a strange contrast against the high-rises, museums, and luxury apartment buildings that line the park.

My restaurant is just around the corner from the park which is usually such a tease before I clock in for work.  This day I enjoyed a little bit of a lazy Sunday with the rest of New York City.

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Breaking Bread and Breaking Italians

by Elena on June 1, 2011

I believe his official name is evil Italian chef.  It should be printed on his chef’s coat to give fair warning to those unsuspecting souls around him.  Since nature must balance the scales between prey and predator, you can tell when he is coming by the slight chill that enters the room just before he approaches and the sudden shortness of breathe caused by the suffocating animosity that fills the air with the ever faint smell of doom.  Am I exaggerating?  It’s been a hard couple of weeks.

One of my responsibilities at the restaurant is to make fresh focaccia bread everyday.  Let me preface by saying that I have made a lot of things in my life and bread is not one of them.  I’ve seen documentaries and watched the Food Network and the Cooking Channel enough times to realize that baking bread is an art.  Some people have worked on this art for years.  I however learned this art in 1 hour from a lackadaisical intern counting down the days until his last day of work.

This bread… This delicious bread, baked fresh daily with fresh rosemary and chopped olives has been the bane of my existence, well at least the bane of the past couple of weeks.  I come in early to let the dough proof before popping it in the oven.  I mise out my ingredients and make more dough the night before so the following day I have time to bake the bread before service.

The problem with making Italian bread is that the Italian chef will no doubt have a vested interest in this recipe.  He will look after your every move, your every mishap, your every mistake, every tear shed over this stupid flat oven-baked Italian bread.  After being yelled at many a times over not getting the bread making process correct, I have taken to my old nerdy strategies and opened some books.  Turns out the library has many books about the bread baking process.  Some neurotic thoughts have plagued my mind about visiting a bakery and 3 am and getting some tips.  If anyone knows of any bread documentaries let me know and I will set my dvr.

The good news is that I am learning some very interesting information about feeding the yeast and making a starter.  When I get better at making bread, which I’m hoping is sooner rather than later, I can post some interesting bread tips and maybe even a focaccia recipe.  This day will come, but for now I’m off to start my work day and hopefully get my focaccia dough nice and proofed.

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There should be more holidays like Memorial Day.  Barbecuing with the family with the faint sound of marching bands in the background and Nico running around the yard trying to catch squirrels.  In my small town they have a Memorial Day parade with small floats and all day long families walk through town with their kids holding American flags and war veterans drive around in classic American cars like a scene out of American Graffiti.  I really needed this day off and if I could stress that point any more than with italicization and bold faced font I would.  I woke up late, drank my coffee in the patio under the grapevines, nursed my wounds, and later watched inordinate amounts of syndicated television with my dog on the couch.  He was trying to stay cool and in the shade all day which is hard to do when you are wearing a permanent black coat and it’s 90 degrees and humid outside.

This past month I’ve been very absent from my blog and very present in a very fancy kitchen in a New York City restaurant.  I graduated from French Culinary Institute and quit my daytime job as a research analyst.  Things were changing fast and life was getting scary.  Look at me during graduation, so blissfully unaware of what was to come.

So I’ve gotten a taste of what it’s like to be a real cook (and yes I realize the food pun in this sentence but give me a break I’m tired and getting ready for a pm shift).  Since I work in a Michelin star rated establishment everything has to be perfect.  Service and even prep can be high stress and you are expected to keep moving, and always be peeling something, blanching something, slicing something, or cleaning something.  This isn’t always easy to do especially after a particularly nasty oil burn where you can now see the inside of your index finger.

While I am thankful for my job and to the chef who gave me the opportunity to work there I won’t lie and say the work is easy.  I’m not completely embarrassed to say that it has been tough and that after my first week of work I cried like a little girl all the way to my car.  It is draining.  You don’t get to see your family and friends because you enter work when everyone you know has been in the office for 5 hours already and you leave when they are all in bed.  On your limited days off you are tired.  Quite frankly the TV and my dog seem so much more appealing than any bar.  Yes I’ve been choosing the company of a canine over human contact in New York City.

The most difficult part of all is not the fast paced kitchen, it isn’t even all of the minor details you have to remember each and every day such as always keeping your proteins on ice, changing out all of your pans, finishing every bulleted item on your task lists.  It isn’t even all the cleaning.  When you work in a kitchen you have to clean a lot.  I have gotten used to that broom and mop and getting down on my hands and knees to scrub down everything I work on.  I spend most of the day running up and down the stairs and finding interesting ways to grab items from hard to reach places.  I’ve had to carry 25 pound bags of flour and oil. It’s not easy for the 6 foot cooks it sure as hell is not easy for me.  Despite all of that the hardest part of all is dealing with the people.

On my second day at the restaurant I had one of the line cooks yell behind me to “walk faster.” Even after helping the guys with their prep you still get some jerk who gives you attitude.  “Can you get me that lid.  No not that one!  That one!  I could have gotten it quicker myself.” (Here’s a thought buddy… get it yourself next time!!!).  Every single person in there, whether qualified or not, wants to give you a piece of their mind about the way things should be done.  At first the advice is helpful but when it comes in a package of malice and sarcasm it makes you want to throw it back in their face along with a cup of hot oil or some other pain inducing substance.  You have to stand there and swallow when some line cook tells you to reduce a liquid down to au sec (which means almost dry) when what he really means is to reduce down to a jus.  In a place like this you will get pushed and pulled in so many different directions you will begin to doubt yourself.  “Elena make the foccacia dough and mix with the old one.” Couple of hours later…. “That is a lot of dough, why did you make it?” This is the point where I graciously excuse myself and jump into the sink full of soup in the dish pit.

I do realize that I’ve been focusing on the negative and one day when I’m feeling a bit more chipper or perhaps when I finally get up on the right side of the bed, I will write all about what I’ve been learning.  I am fully aware of how melodramatic I am being, however I’m not going to lie and tell everyone how great it is and how easy of a transition it has been because it’s just not true.  I know I’ve gone a little crazy after a couple weeks of sometimes working over 60 hours, which I’m sure is some sort of breaking point as a newbie.

For my own sanity I have promised myself that despite my busy schedule I will make time for the things I enjoy, in particular writing and cooking at home for the people I love.  Even now, before I head to work for another day indoors until midnight, I may go outside to enjoy another big glass of coffee outside under the grapevine.

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Food 2 School: Trials of a Soon-to-Be Cook

by Elena on April 25, 2011

Last week I sat down late one evening to write my final post as a culinary student for food2.  It was the night before the deadline – since I always work so well under pressure – and I was tired and slightly disheveled from the busy week.  At first I had a tough time deciding what to write about.  It isn’t easy to conveniently wrap up any significant experience into one condensed blog post, let alone the experience that changed the course of my career.  My anxiety about the coming weeks when I move from the office to the kitchen certainly had a lot of influence in my topic.  The following post was my most personal and honest, an account of what the past couple of months have been like for me.

This post is part of the Food 2 series.  I am writing this series about my experience in the culinary school kitchen for the food2.com blog.

It’s official: In two weeks, I’ll be a cook. I will be removing my student hat and moving on to a professional kitchen, where I will be joining the subculture of people behind closed doors, working to create composed and delicious plates of food to the hungry and eager customers of New York City.

The business of food is popular. That is why there are countless food blogs, countless celebrity chefs, why most everyone knows the phrase “Please, pack your knives and go,” and why restaurant clientele have higher standards than ever before. Since starting culinary school, I have received many questions from people looking for some insight into a world that has been somewhat idealized and sensationalized.

Countless chefs have given us the same warning: Working in a professional kitchen is hard work. I can’t speak for every culinary student or amateur cook about to enter the field, of course, but I can speak for myself. My 5’ 2” frame can attest to the difficulty of lifting heavy pans and large containers filled with congealed veal stock. In the beginning of your career, you will be expected to “pay your dues” (as you should), which means you better get used to dicing onions, picking spinach, or peeling potatoes for hours. Learn to do these tasks quickly and without complaints, and you may get offered a job. This job, however, will most likely pay very little, especially if you decide to work in fine dining or at a popular restaurant where many other cooks are vying for a position. You will most likely work during the most inopportune times — while your friends are at happy hour, or when your spouse comes home from work, or when your family sits down for Thanksgiving dinner. At some point, you will be on the receiving end of a chef’s wrath against haughty and inexperienced culinary students. If you mess up, you will get yelled at and, despite your best efforts to convince yourself otherwise, you probably will deserve it.

In my experience, I did my part to perpetuate the “cook” stereotype. I frequently grabbed a drink after service, most often when I needed the camaraderie of my fellow classmates paired with a good laugh and a cold beer. I flirted with the frowned upon practice of kitchen romance that often makes work uncomfortable and difficult. I’ve been yelled at by chefs twice my size and with ten times my experience — sometimes because I was in the wrong place at the wrong time, but mostly because I was wrong. There were times when I felt like throwing a decent-sized saucepan across the room in honor of the many hotheaded chefs I’ve heard so much about. During a less than proud moment, I had to sneak out of the kitchen so no one could see the tears welling up in my eyes as I struggled to cope with the drama detailed above, combined with only a few hours of sleep and a small amount of patience.

I have also felt the high after a night of successfully pulling myself out of the weeds and filling the orders barked by the expediting chef, all the while keeping track of the temperature of every piece of lamb sitting in my oven. I get to be around interesting ingredients, and I am constantly learning new flavor profiles and techniques. I have been lucky enough to work side by side with respected chefs who I previously had only known about through the media. During a trail at a Michelin-star restaurant, I was thrown into service and trusted to help plate dishes. After service, I sat in front of the chef and politely asked him, “Are you sure?” when he offered me a job working in his kitchen.

But as difficult and demanding as this career may be, there is a reason why people stick with it: We love it. I love it. Kitchen life attracts passionate and determined overachievers who enjoy — or at least can handle — high-stress situations. It requires focus and composure to put out food you care about. In a way, being a cook is just as much about being a team player and working with a team as it is about challenging yourself. It can be a selfish career choice, too. As cooks, we may not always be aware of how self-centered and one-track minded we may sound after talking for hours about food and cooking with our colleagues. Just the same, I consider myself lucky to care about something so intensely.

Great chefs at school encourage students and the cooks that work under them to push harder. They force us to get out of our comfort zones, and for that I am grateful. I am also grateful to my classmates whose creativity and competitive natures have inspired me to become a better cook. In the kitchen, they kept me laughing despite how tired I was or how discouraged I felt. We all work hard for that small moment of satisfaction when after all the hours and the sacrifice, the burns and the bruised egos, the failures (and successes), we put out a truly great plate of food. And then, it is all worth it.

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Pastry

by Elena on April 21, 2011

People who like to bake can be put into two narrow categories, those who lick the leftover brownie batter from the bottom of the bowl and those who don’t.  I’m one of the people who will go to town on a bowl of cookie dough, scraping the edges with my plastic spatula, eating more than my fair share of raw eggs in the process.  Salmonella I scoff at you.  There is a reason why chocolate chip cookie dough is one of the most popular flavors of ice cream in the US and it’s because raw cookie dough rocks the house.  Some culinary masterpieces cannot be explained and the mixture of butter, raw eggs, sugar, flour, and chocolate chips is one of them.

As a kid I didn’t exactly munch on sugar cubes but I did enjoy my sweets.  I was the kid who would dump the whole bowl of Halloween candy into my bag if someone was lazy enough to leave the candy bowl on his front stoop for the taking.  I’m not proud of my candy kleptomania but honestly who can expect a bunch of 10 year olds to exert any sort of will power in the face of twix bars and pixie stix.  My palate has changed slightly over the years (I still eat cookie dough) but I am much more cautious about my sugar intake.  I like both my feet thank you.  Still old habits die hard and sometimes during service at L’Ecole I’ll sneak into the pastry kitchen when the Chef isn’t looking and snag some baking chocolate as a small pick me up before the first couple of orders come in.

Despite my sweet-tooth, I never truly wanted to be a pastry chef/cook/baker. Pastry is a lot slower paced than culinary. There isn’t the speed and heat you find in a regular kitchen.  Personally I prefer pastry in the comfort of my own home where I can catch up on the latest episode of 30 Rock or take a quick cat nap on the couch.  Working pastry in a professional kitchen makes me want to pull out my hair strand by strand as I wait for a souffle to rise or a tart to set only to find them fallen and frothy (don’t forget you’re not supposed to whip your custards).

Working in a pastry kitchen is good practice however for working with precision.  It is much easier to mess up pastries which is why contestants cringe on the pastry challenge during most cooking shows.  When cooking savory food you can add a little bit of this with a little dash of that and taste your dish along the way.  In pastry it is harder to improvise the recipe.

Below are the desserts that we served at L’Ecole during my time in the kitchen.

Cranberry Almond Tart with Salted Caramel Ice Cream

Pineapple Carpaccio with Mojito Sorbet

Orange and Lemon Tart with Raspberry Coulis

Chocolate-Orange Parfait

Lemon and Blackberry Coulis Ice Cream Sandwich with Vanilla and Chocolate Wafer

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Fire Drill

by Elena on April 12, 2011

This is what happens during a fire drill.

A sea of white chef coats standing in the cold as tourists toting large shopping bags snap quick pictures as they pass through Soho.

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March is almost over which means that I will graduate from culinary school in a little over one month.  I literally have to sit back and take a breathe to fully grasp the validity of that statement.  I have grown quite accustomed to the busy schedule, sitting in front of a computer during the day and then rushing from work to the 6 train to make it to school on time and work behind a burner.  I was used to waking up at the crack of dawn to catch the bus and later in the evening running through Port Authority in an effort to catch or miss the last bus home, all the while with my heavy knife case digging in my side.  These musings may seem trivial but I truly find it hard to believe that school is almost over and I know some small part of me will miss all these mishaps, except maybe the time

Our big menu project was due in level 5.  Currently I am in level 6, the last level of our program.  For our project we had to put together a menu and either take pictures of our dishes or draw them.  Considering that my art skills are somewhat akin to kindergarten finger painting I decided to cook the dishes and take pictures.  I wrote about my project on the Food 2 School blog on food2.com.  I also wanted to show my menu project on my blog.  I followed a Spanish theme and chose dishes I grew up eating as a kid, particularly the churros.  The procrastination forced me to finish in less than a week but I was happy with the outcome because I feel like it shows a little bit of who I am as a cook.  I will always be influenced by my family and culture and the flavors of my childhood.

Amuse Bouche
Serrano Ham Wrapped Dates

Tapas
White Garlic and Almond Gazpacho Topped with Dried Fig

Mussels Two Ways—Mussels Escabeche and Steamed Mussels in a Tomato Chorizo Broth

Disassembled Spanish Tortilla—Pan-Fried Potatoes, Stewed Chorizo, and Red Pepper Marmalade Topped With Easy Over Egg and Dehydrated Red Pepper

Main
Sautéed Octopus and Braised Short Rib ‘Surf and Turf’

Cod Pil Pil—Emulsified Olive Oil, Pickled Slaw, Roasted Scallion, and Romesco Sauce

Digestif
Goat Cheese Sorbet and Quince Paste Granita

Dessert
Churros

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[Taste of Spain] White Gazpacho

by Elena on March 3, 2011

This post is part of the Taste of Spain series.  This series contains information on Spanish flavors, ingredients, dishes, and culinary culture.

When most people think of gazpacho, a red cold soup with an acidic bite comes to mind.  The origins of gazpacho go back to southern Spain to the province of Andalucia.  Red gazpacho is made with tomatoes, onions, garlic, peppers, vinegar, olive oil, and bread, however a cold soup was served in Southern Spain long before tomatoes were brought over from South America.

Ajo Blanco translates to white garlic.  It is a cold soup made from leftover bread, garlic, and in later years the addition of almonds.  It was a peasant dish, cheap to make, and practical because it created a use for day old bread.  The addition of almonds came when the Moors brought almonds to Spain from North Africa as well as various other ingredients that slowly became appropriated into the Spanish diet.

It is hard to pinpoint the exact origin of a dish but a good guess for this particular soup would be around the city of Granada.  Granada has a history deeply rooted in the amalgamation of cultures such as Christian, Jewish, Muslim, and Romani.  This mix is reflected in the food and also in the history and architecture of the city.  The most obvious example is the Moorish palace the Alhambra built by the Nasrid dynasty and years later taken over by the Christians after the Spanish reconquest.

This picture below was taken from the Albaicin, a small district of white washed houses that overlook the palace.  There are many live performances during the day, including impromptu performances by local musicians.

In Granada it is typical to eat Ajo Blanco with a baked potato.  Ajo Blanco can also be served with fruit such as grapes or figs.  The sweetness of the fruit makes a great pairing for the acid of the soup.  In Malaga the residents are known for serving their Ajo Blanco with Moscatel grapes, native to the region.  The soup is so popular in fact, they celebrate a feast for the dish each year.

White Gazpacho ‘Ajo Blanco’

There are many recipes but for the most part they are very simple and use the same ingredients.  I used this recipe from Chef Jose Andres Made In Spain.  Chef Jose Andres is one of my favorite chefs because he cooks with passion but also seems genuinely happy to be cooking or teaching about Spanish food.  I hope to get the opportunity to work with him someday.

Ingredients
White Gazpacho
8 ounces blanched almonds
6 cups mineral water
2 garlic cloves
3/4 cup sherry vinegar
2.5 cups extra virgin olive oil
3 slices rustic bread (no crusts)
2 dried figs quartered for garnish
1 tablespoon chives

Put blanched almonds into a bowl and cover with water. Let the almonds soak overnight.

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small pot over high heat. Add the garlic and boil for one minute until garlic gets soft. Drain from water.

Put the almonds and soaking liquid in a robot coupe or food processor. Add the garlic, 3/4 cup of vinegar, 2 1/2 cups of olive oil, and bread (left soaking in some milk). Puree until smooth. If the mixture is too thick feel free to add some water to loosen it up. Place a colander over a large bowl and cover with a cheese cloth. Pour the soup into the colander. Once the liquid has gone through the cheese cloth, gather the cheesecloth around the solids and squeeze out the excess liquid. Discard solids. Let the soup chill for at least 30 minutes. This soup is served cold.

Quarter the figs to use as garnish. Use fresh figs when they are in season. Put one quarter in each soup bowl as well as some chopped chives. You can also finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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